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A massively concentrated ice wine packed with caramelized fruit character, but there’s an almost dangerous pineapple freshness at the very long finish. Has decades of ageing potential!
The 2016 Nahe Riesling Eiswein Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg was picked very early—on the 30th of November—and fermented up to 6.45% alcohol with 193 grams of residual sugar (total acidity: 12.7 grams per liter). The wine is round, rich and concentrated on the palate, but at the same time it is also elegant, fresh and provided with tension and a lovely piquant, salty-mineral finish. This is a delicate and stimulating Eiswein with a long, aromatic finish. Still very sweet, though. 375-milliliter bottles.
In the string of Hexamer 2016s from frozen grapes, this is the only one harvested on the same morning as most Eiswein of this vintage, namely November 30. On the nose there is some anticipation of lemonade-like sweet-tartness, along with the prickle of fresh radish and bruised lemon peel. The brightness of fresh lemon on the palate is pitted against a syrupy, jellied concentration of quince and white peach. This almost frighteningly concentrated, penetratingly persistent libation is of the “drink it before it drinks you” variety. It’s tempting to imagine this harboring extract and energy to burn for decades. But Eiswein evolution is unpredictable. I can’t help noting – and take it as an indication of Hexamer’s own vision of this wine’s evolution – that it represents the first in tasting through his 2016 collection, including two other Eisweine, that he chose to bottle under natural cork rather than screw-cap.
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