| Producer | Chateau Des Rontets |
| Country | France |
| Region | Burgundy |
| Subregion | Pouilly Fuisse |
| Varietal | Chardonnay |
| Vintage | 2022 |
| Sku | 210000031358 |
| Size | 750ml |
Fabio and Claire Gazeau-Montrasi direct this 6 ha domaine perched high above the village of Fuissé. Fabio Gazeau told me that 2022 "definitely easier to manage than either 2020 or 2021 though this isn't to say that there weren't a few periods where you really had to be vigilant. Happily, those passed without too much trouble and we picked between the 24th and the 31st of August. Yields, for us at least, were quite good at between 42 and 43 hl/ha, and a damn sight better than the paltry 14 hl/ha that we realized in 2021. Potential alcohols were good but not high, ranging from 13 to 13.5% with solid acidities as the post-malo pHs came in right at 3.25. I like the vintage as the wines are ripe but fresh and should age well. They are almost ready to bottle and we will probably do so in late July" I agree with Gazeau's take as not only are the wines qualitatively excellent but there is every reason to believe that they will age well. Gazeau noted that the domaine has gone to a larger diameter natural cork of 25 mm versus the previous 24 mm.
The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Varambon comes from vines around the house, between 50 and 60 years old. This has a well-defined bouquet with red apple, hints of nectarine and beeswax, all nicely focused. The palate is very well balanced with the same tension and mineralité I found last year, perhaps in the interim developing more weight and spiciness on the finish. Superb.
Pungent aromas of reduction and discreet wood influence lead to bigger, richer and more refined medium weight flavors that are succulent to the point of being seductive, all wrapped in a punchy, balanced and lingering finale. This is lovely and a wine that should age gracefully over the mid-term. Drink from 2028.