A dusting of cedary spice, dried roses, cloves and red currants wafts up from the darkly alluring 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Ciliegio. This is profoundly textural and bassy, with a core of mineral-laden red berry fruit and orange motivated by brisk acidity. It finishes long and structured, leaving a salty flourish lingering with traces of tart cranberry and edgy tannins. It's simply stunning. The Ciliegio hails from a plot of vines planted in 1974 in sandy clay and galesto soils.