Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Old Sparky Beckstoffer To Kalon Napa Valley 2023 (1.5L)
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This is the first 'Old Sparky' from the Mondavi To Kalon site in its new iteration for Thomas Rivers Brown, who had previously sourced fruit from Beckstoffer To Kalon. Always bottled in Magnum, here's the breakdown of fruit: the original N2S heritage clone block serves as the anchor, with blended parcels from To Kalon's southern blocks, including those that contribute to Schrader's new TKS and HMS bottlings, along with parcels from near the Mondavi winery and the Monastery Block 14, planted to Clone 685. Though Brown assured me this was all 'trial-and-error,' the wine is exceptional, if not accidentally so. It was Brown's richest, plushest, and most structured wine of the set I tasted, delivering the greatest aromatic intensity and palate impression, and it's a clear cellar-worthy candidate. For all its power, it retains a mark of freshness because of the long, cool growing season. In the glass, floral and rose petal lead, followed by savoury sagebrush, black olive and hints of liquorice. The fruit profile spans blue to black to red. Tasted over the course of an entire week, a glass or two at a time, it consistently improved with air, leaning into a more loamy earth and black-fruited character. Above all, it continued to offer immense drinking pleasure. (JC)
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The first release of this cuvée from the new Mondavi parcels, the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Sparky is released only in magnum and raised all in new oak. It's a powerful, structured effort with an inky hue and ripe black fruits, graphite, crushed stone, lead pencil, and tobacco leaf that define the aromatics. It's incredibly concentrated, has a great mid-palate, a layered, building sense of structure, huge tannins, and a great finish. Hats off to Thomas Rivers Brown for continuing the incredible quality of this cuvée. Hide bottles for a decade if you can and it will keep for 30+ years. There are 2,124 bottles produced. (JD)
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