Domaine J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse 2023 (750ml)
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Get 10% off 6+ bottles: $54.00 each
(89-90) This wine starts life in a mix of tank and barrel. The tank component, which includes the vines on schistous soils in one part of Fuissé, shows some green tints to the colour, with an attractive fruit both lively and juicy. There is a definite bitterness. Still, youthful promise. The barrel component, from clay-limestone soils includes some 1er Cru grapes as a counterpoint to the schist, and a bit of fruit from Vergisson. Pale lemon in colour without the green, a slightly richer and softer nose, more evidently Pouilly-Fuissé. Fresh plum fruit, balanced and delicious. My assessment may be over cautious. Drink from 2026-2030.
A lovely Chardonnay from one of the historic estates of Fuisse, made from a patchwork of vineyards that show how varied the soils within the appellation are. The Ferret family established the domaine in 1840, and it remained in the family for generations before being acquired by Maison Louis Jadot in 2008. Rather than folding Ferret into the larger Jadot portfolio, the domaine has kept its own identity and its longstanding focus on the vineyards of Fuisse. Today, the estate is led by winemaker Audrey Braccini, who has continued that work while moving the vineyards toward organic farming. The wine brings together some of the domaine’s best parcels across Fuisse’s natural amphitheatre, with vines averaging around 40 years old and some dating as far back as 1947. Those vineyards span a really broad range of soils, including shallow clay/limestone around the Premier Cru sites to deeper clay, schist and volcanic soils.
Each vineyard is vinified and aged separately. Fruit from the granitic soils goes into stainless steel, while parcels on clay and limestone are raised in barrel. After 10 months, the components are brought together for another eight months in tank, helping preserve freshness and tension before bottling.
It offers a really complete expression of Fuisse. There’s some of the roundness and texture you'd expect, balanced by bright citrus, fresh herbs, juicy fruit and a mineral, lightly saline finish. A natural pairing for oysters (hooray for oyster season!) or a comforting seafood risotto. It's drinking beautifully right now, but you could certainly lay some down for a few more years.Â
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